Brain Tanned Leather

What is Brain-Tanned Leather?

Brain-tanned leather is one of the oldest and most traditional methods of tanning hides, practiced by Indigenous cultures around the world for thousands of years. As the name suggests, it involves using the animal’s own brain matter (or a substitute like egg yolk or lecithin) to tan the hide.

Unlike commercial leathers, brain-tanned leather is entirely smoke-tanned and chemical-free, making it exceptionally soft, breathable, and durable. It has a suede-like feel on both sides, a distinctive smoky scent, and is often considered the most natural and environmentally friendly leather available.

  • Brain tanning is a labor-intensive, hands-on process that can take days to weeks to complete. It involves manual scraping, natural emulsions, and smoking, with attention to detail at every step. Here's how it's done:

    1. Skinning and Fleshing

    • The process begins immediately after the animal is skinned.

    • The hide is fleshed—removing all fat, connective tissue, and membrane from the underside.

    • This is done with a fleshing tool or scraper on a beam, taking care not to damage the grain.

    2. Dehairing (Optional)

    • If buckskin (soft, suede-like leather) is desired, the hair is removed using water and friction or natural enzymes (or sometimes by soaking in wood ash solution).

    • If hair-on tanning is preferred (less common in brain tanning), this step is skipped.

    3. Graining and Membrane Removal

    • The grain layer (outer skin) may be scraped off for added softness, depending on the final use.

    • Remaining membrane on the flesh side is carefully removed to ensure the hide accepts the brain solution evenly.

    4. Braining (Applying the Tanning Agent)

    • The animal's own brain is boiled and mashed into a slurry—it contains lecithin, a natural emulsifier that helps bind oils to the fibers.

    • The brain mixture is rubbed or soaked into the hide, saturating it completely.

    • Some people substitute egg yolks, soy lecithin, or natural oils if brains aren’t available.

    • After saturation, the hide is wrung out and softened repeatedly to work the oils in and prepare the leather.

    5. Softening and Stretching

    • As the hide dries, it must be continuously pulled, stretched, and worked by hand to maintain softness.

    • This is a long and physically demanding step. Without constant working, the hide will stiffen as it dries.

    6. Smoking (Preservation Step)

    • Once fully softened, the hide is smoked over a low, smoldering fire using rotten punk wood or hardwood chips.

    • The smoke infuses the leather, giving it a warm golden brown or grey tone and a distinctive smell.

    • More importantly, smoke acts as a preservative, making the hide washable and protecting it from bacteria, rot, and re-hardening when wet.

    • A properly smoked hide can last decades or longer if cared for.

    • Exceptionally Soft and Flexible: Often described as cloth-like, it drapes and moves unlike any other leather.

    • Highly Breathable: Ideal for clothing, moccasins, and gear meant to be worn close to the skin.

    • Biodegradable and Eco-Friendly: Uses no synthetic chemicals or heavy metals.

    • Natural Aesthetic: Slightly uneven texture and tone, with a matte, suede-like surface.

    • Strong and Durable: When properly smoked, it resists rot and can last for generations.

    • Distinctive Smell: Smoky, earthy aroma from the final step in the process.

  • Brain-tanned leather is especially valued in traditional, outdoor, and heritage applications:

    • Moccasins and boots

    • Clothing and shirts

    • Gloves and mittens

    • Bags, quivers, and pouches

    • Historical reenactment gear

    • Traditional Native American crafts and regalia

    • Washable (if smoked): Unlike many other leathers, smoked brain-tan can be washed gently and will retain its softness.

    • Re-smoke if Needed: If it gets soaked and starts to harden, it can be re-softened and re-smoked to restore its properties.

    • Store in Dry Conditions: While durable, it is still an organic material and should be kept away from prolonged dampness.